Thursday, February 27, 2014

Day-25: Okinawa

Day-25: Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Beginning Location: East China Sea En-route to Naha, Okinawa
Interim Location: Naha, Okinawa
Final Location: East China Sea En-route to Kobe, Japan

We slept a little later today as our arrival in Okinawa wasn’t scheduled until early afternoon. That didn’t mean more sleep as we advanced the clocks an hour as we moved closer to Japanese territory. As with so many mornings, we had another fruit plate for breakfast.


We had been warned that while in Japanese territorial waters we would not have Internet access as the Japanese government has restrictions on the use of “C” and Ku” bands. No one seems to know why the prohibition exists but if it’s to happen we’ll be ready. Sheila and I each closed out some of our Internet work and messaging and we made Skype calls before moving on to the day’s events.

Around 0930 we joined up with our Trivia team for the morning’s brain exercise. Today’s score wasn’t so good, we achieved a score of 19 out of 27; it may have gotten us 4th place but not enough for a winning position. Some of today’s questions were:
  • Name the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
  • Name the Greek God of Youth & Music.
  • Which of the following major city names is found on all continents except Antarctica? London, Paris or Rome
  • Which of the following cities has the largest underground rail system? London, Tokyo or Paris
  • Which actress is credited with naming the “Rat Pack”?
  • What is the length of the Panama Canal? (+or- 2 miles)

Following trivia we attended the pre-Japan enrichment lecture “Little Boy & Fat Man Go To War – Japan 1945 – A Necessary Evil: The Bombing of Japan as a Final Solution”. The two gentlemen presenting the various topics tag teamed the subject for about 90 minutes prepping us for our tours in Okinawa and later in Hiroshima.

So after an uplifting lecture we returned to our room and after an hour or so headed to lunch in the Terrace Café.

Around 1300 we docked in Naha. The ship used two tugs today; I suspect it's something to do with job security for the local pilots and watermen. 






Our pier was located just a short distance from the Naha airport. Also on arrival the presence of a large U.S. military contingent was evident, especially the USAF. As we would later learn, the U.S. military presence on Okinawa is a mixed blessing, good for the economy but not a good fit for tradition and perceived safety of Japanese citizens.







Much had been made about the immigration requirements for our entry into Japan. The requirements included the usual document review but this time we would receive a temperature scan, finger print scan and be photographed before being issued clearance to go ashore for our tour.

Turns out the immigration event was one of the least organized events we’ve experienced. The Japanese authorities were well equipped but the ship’s people management was pathetic. In the end people were standing in serpentine lines for an hour in some cases to reach the lounge being used for the immigration checks. At one point the line stretched from the forward part of the ship, aft into and around the Grand Dining Room and back forward to the immigration lounge. People were cutting in the line and in one instance a crewmember brought about a dozen people from the rear of the line to the front. People that had dutifully stood in line were miffed. So after about an hour delay most of the tours were underway, but the grumbling will be heard for some time to come.
Welcoming Committee









Our tour today was entitled “Battle of Okinawa” and would last about 4 hours. The areas to be covered were heavily involved in fighting in the early summer of 1945.

 







We drove through the City of Naha; of note was the baseball stadium home of what I assume to be the Naha Giants. 









We arrived at what was the Imperial Japanese Navy underground bunker located on the south end of Okinawa. The bunker was never destroyed as such it has been modified for tourism with air conditioning and good lighting illuminating and cooling the various tunnels and rooms. We were shown where the Admiral responsible for defending the island directed his forces to surrender and then committed suicide to retain his honor.


 












Our next stop was at the Himeyuri Monument, which is described as a representative symbol of the severity of the Okinawa campaign. The site and museum facilities are dedicated to the more than 200 schoolgirls and teachers who died as “volunteer” nurses for the Japanese forces. In reality, it’s well documented that the Japanese conscripted not only men but women and children as well to defend Okinawa and imparted such a fear of the American soldiers that many of the Okinawans fought to the death or committed suicide, some by jumping from high cliffs into the sea, all to retain honor and avoid capture. 



In the museum, individual pictures of the 200+ teachers and schoolgirls are on display, bringing home the craziness of the Battle of Okinawa.


We departed the Himeyuri Monument and after a short retail stop continued though areas of Naha.



Finally, we visited the Peace Park, a site of one of the final battles at Okinawa. The place today is a modern day memorial park including the names of all who died in the Battle of Okinawa. This is not just about the people of Okinawa as it includes the names of Allied soldiers and sailors as well.
 














The guide’s summary of all of this was that the people of Okinawa in the mid-1940’s felt that they had been sacrificed by the Japanese central government and military hoping to delay the expected invasion of the homeland.

Enough of that, we observed sunset en-route to the ship where we arrived around 1900 and within about 45 minutes were underway for Kobe, Japan.

Our room steward and stewardess (brother & sister team) stopped by for the turndown service while I was in the room. We talked about the day’s tour and they opened up about their own concerns even today for their friends and family in the Ukraine. Alexandre mentioned that he had skyped with friends and found that they had steered clear of the violence and that as best he and Veronika knew, all of their friends and family were okay. We didn’t get into the politics of the Ukraine, but it was interesting that these 25-30 year olds were opening up about home and the possibility of unrest that could lead to revolution in the current day and times.

We actually skipped dinner tonight having eaten a late lunch and having had an appetizer tray delivered to the room.

Around 2130 we ambled down to the Nautica Lounge for tonight’s show. One of the “enrichment speakers” is also a self-made troubadour of sorts. He brought out his guitar and along with traditional folk songs and a story or two he sang some re-worded tunes generally focusing on the “older generation”, which by the way includes himself. A couple of his songs were “Oldest Swinger In Town” and “Adventure Before Dementia”. It was a great show if you like the troubadour type thing; it’s fair to say that we both enjoyed the music and banter. 

Day-24: Brief Visit To Taiwan

Day-24: Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Beginning Location: Taiwan Strait

Interim Location: Keelung, Taiwan
Final Location: East China Sea En-route to Naha, Okinawa

Today our schedule has us spending the day in Keelung, Taiwan.

The morning was partly cloudy as we made landfall but as the sun rose we were soon able to see the island of Taiwan. The sea detail into Keelung is relatively short and by 0800 we were moored to the ocean terminal pier and ready to begin our day's tours. 

On entry into Keelung we passed by a Navy frigate which upon closer inspection turned out to be the exUSS Brewton FF-1086 renamed as ROCN Fong Yang FFG-933. Hard to believe that the FF-1052 class ships are still operating.










Our tour for the day was entitled "Highlights of Taipei". We departed the port city of Keelung and drove by bus to Taipei in about 20 minutes. Both cities are located at the north end of the island. We entered Taipei and found it to be like so many major southeast Asia cities, busy, busy, busy with new and old buildings intermingled. Taipei's highest building, at one time the world's tallest is Taipei-101 and it stands out as there are no other buildings anywhere near as high.



Our first stop was at the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial commemorating the life of the leader of Nationalist China and founder of modern day Taiwan, the Republic of China. The memorial grounds are landscaped and manicured and in addition to the memorial, houses opera, theater and music venues, all built on a grand scale. We elevatored and/or climbed the steps into the memorial where we witnessed the changing of the guard at the statue of Chiang Kai-Shek.




Our guide Tina, briefly took us though the history of Taiwan and its relationship with the "big" China to the west.



Sheila With Our Travel Agent



Our final stop was at the National Palace Museum, home to the art treasures that Chiang Kai-Shek "saved from Japan". Others view the collection as a grand theft from China, hoarded by the Taiwanese government and a thorn in the side of relations between the two countries. As the story goes, Chiang Kai-Shek also took millions of dollars in gold bullion from China, again protecting it from the Japanese aggressors.









The museum houses collections from various Chinese dynasties; articles of bronze, jade, porcelain, ivory, and just about any other material imaginable. The center pieces of the collection are a 3000 year old bronze pot and a small but impressive carving in jadeite, formed to look like a cabbage or stalk of bok choy.

The tough part is competing with so many people. To see the two centerpieces we had to stand in lines for 10-15 minutes for each piece. Other rooms of the museum house some great carvings; whether done in wood, ivory or rhino tusk the carving were impressive. Of course all of this was done long before anyone ever thought of embargoes and bans of ivory and rhino horns.


We arrived back at the ship and had a quick lunch.







The ship was underway for Okinawa by 1500.

ExUSS Brewton FF-1086




Green On The Other Side
Red Right Returning



William Adams
Soon after the departure we attended another in the enrichment lecture series entitled "William Adams - The English Samurai", the story of the first Englishman to secure a position and actually live and work in Japan. He had started life as a simple seaman but in his travels and work experience elevated himself to a position of notoriety in both Japan and England, his home.






We joined a Trivia team for this leg of the journey. Our teammates are from California, Alabama and Ireland, well actually living in Canada but originally from Ireland (County Cork of course). Here are some of the questions:
  • In a deck of playing cards, which “King” has no mustache?
  • In golf what does the term “Albatross” mean?
  • In radio communication what is the last alphabetical letter as well as the name of an African tribe?
  • What did astronomer Edmond Halley invent in 1691?
  • When did Mexico become independent of Spain: 1821, 1831 or 1841?
  • Which of the world’s ocean is the saltiest?
  • What did the Cunard cruise ship Aquitania have that had never before been on an ocean liner?
In the end we had enough correct answers to place third amongst about six teams.

We had dinner in the Polo Grill with one of the other two USNA couples. These folks are from Oklahoma.

After dinner we called it a night. Tomorrow we would be arriving in Okinawa for a short visit.